Here’s our latest route profile – this time a two-pitch trad route on one of the best outcrops of Gneiss in Scotland. We were there earlier this month.
Diabaig’s ‘Main Cliff’ is known for its steep first pitches followed by technical slab climbing after good ledge belays at mid-height. Northumberland Wall, with two 5c pitches, takes an unlikely line surmounting the steepest section of the crag. The three-star route starts up an obvious corner to the second small roof shown in the shot below. The line then takes a delicate traverse right before the crux section through the black streaked rock in the top right of the picture. From below the first roof the pitch is sustained, demanding good route finding with a crux move to get established in the upper crack.
On the first pitch of Northumberland Wall – Diabaig Main Cliff.
The second pitch starts up a hard-to-protect slab before traversing left under an obvious overlap (easily seen in the picture below). Above that, the route leads through a steep slab using a thin crack that becomes steadily more useful. Hard moves then lead to a broken feature with better holds.
On the crux of the second pitch.
Generally thought to be a tough E2, it is undoubtedly one of the best routes at Diabaig. The climbing at Diabaig is about 30 minutes from Torridon village and, with a range of grades on fantastic rock, it is a great venue to try some multi-pitch climbing. South facing, it has to be in one of the best positions on the West Coast. More route profiles from Diabaig soon.
See our pages on Guided Climbing for more.
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